Meticulous reproduction of the early Knucklehead cast iron oil pump as used by the factory 1936-1940, however, the pump will fit all Knuckles and even early Panheads (with solid lifters). It comes un-assembled with all gears, check valve and bypass valve. Made in Germany.

Opened up the gear case of your just acquired Knuckle or early Pan engine to find a bunch of bits worn beyond repair? This gear set helps you along. It contains all necessary components, except for the camshaft, to put your gear case back into as new condition. Everything precisely machined and matched to factory specs:

• pinion gear
• cam shaft
• breather gear
• circuit breaker drive gear and stud
• idler gear and stud
• oil pump drive gear
• oil pump driven gear
• gear shaft bearing seal
• gear shaft spring

The cam shaft is a stock replacement part with factory specs. Made in Germany.

Precise reproduction of the factory cam as used in 61" OHV Knuckleheads 1936-1939. All measurements and specs were taken from an original example. It features the distinctive six lightening holes in the gear hence the nickname "Light(e)ning" cam. Fits all Knucklehead 61” and 74” models and years.

• pinion gear
• cam shaft
• breather gear
• circuit breaker drive gear and stud
• idler gear and stud
• oil pump drive gear
• oil pump driven gear
• gear shaft bearing seal
• gear shaft spring

The cam shaft is a stock replacement part with factory specs. Made in Germany.

Knucklehead tappet guides are rare bits, the ones, that are still in good working condition, are almost impossible to find.

You who are in need, do not despair any longer: Cannonball tappet guides are cast and meticulously machined in Germany to OEM specs and fit OEM and Cannonball Knucklehead cases. Just paint or coat them and you're ready to go. Made in Germany.

These Knuckle style cylinder heads are precise reproductions of the stock counterparts and show all the small details like cast-in number tags and foundry markings. Thus they make for great replacements for your worn top end or to build a factory look-alike engine. They are manufatured after 1940-1947 heads with big intake ports. The pre-installed, but unmachined valve seats are sized for stock intake and exhaust valves and hardened for the use of today’s unleaded fuels. Threads for spark plugs and head bolts are stock, 18 mm and 7/16”-16 respectively. Head bolt pattern is like stock, too. Made in Germany.

A typical problem of original Knucklehead cylinder heads you find on swap meets are missing tabs for the rocker housing. These cast iron weld-on or solder-on tabs might help you make a good deal. They are made exactly like the original tabs and after you have drilled and trimmed them to length you just have to find a good welder to put them back onto your heads. Made in Germany.

Meticulous reproduction of the early Knucklehead cast iron oil pump as used by the factory 1936-1940, however, the pump will fit all Knuckles and even early Panheads (with solid lifters). It comes un-assembled with all gears, check valve and bypass valve. Made in Germany.

Opened up the gear case of your just acquired Knuckle or early Pan engine to find a bunch of bits worn beyond repair? This gear set helps you along. It contains all necessary components, except for the camshaft, to put your gear case back into as new condition. Everything precisely machined and matched to factory specs:

• pinion gear
• cam shaft
• breather gear
• circuit breaker drive gear and stud
• idler gear and stud
• oil pump drive gear
• oil pump driven gear
• gear shaft bearing seal
• gear shaft spring

The cam shaft is a stock replacement part with factory specs. Made in Germany.

In his song "Panheads Forever" David Allen Coe writes: ”she’s hard to get started she’s always so cold..." and this line pretty well describes the mixed feelings which many owners of classic Big Twins get, when they look at their bikes. Yes, of course, we cherish and love our old scoots, but sometimes they are hard to kickstart and consequently are a pain - in the back, in the knee, or in the a@@. Understandably sooner or later the strange desire for an - ugh! - electric starter creeps over many a seasoned biker. But how to achieve this with an old rigid frame Harley? Well, here’s just what the doctor ordered.

The Cannonball electric start kit for rigid frame Big Twins converts your classic kickstart-only motorcycle to electric start. After installation you just push the button or turn the key and your old Flathead, Knucklehead or Panhead will roar to life instantly. Another good thing with the CB starter kit is that it is almost invisible. The overall appearance of the motorcycle does not change at all and from 2 meters away you will have a hard time to spot anything. Primary housing, oil tank, rear fender - all can be retained, although a bit modified. The transmission with its stock kickstarter stays untouched. The kit includes everything needed for the conversion except for the battery, wires and starter button/switch, which must be purchased separately. If the bike is still equipped with the early stock 6V charging system you will have to convert this to 12 V, which means a suitable generator, coil and lamps need to be fitted. Detailed, step-by-step instructions guide through the installation, which is straightforward but which should be left to an experienced mechanic with fully equipped workshop. The kit is intended for the use with primary chain drive. Made in the Netherlands.

Erwin "Cannonball" Baker would have liked these unusual handlebars during his grueling transcontinental rides in the 1920’s and in fact the design derives from this era when the first leaf spring handlebars were installed on motorcycles. The idea was to take some vibration out of the bars and add some flexibility when hitting bumps or potholes. However, we admit that you cannot expect too much in that sense. What the Cannonball bars can offer are stability and a unique style. They are made by a skilled craftsman in very limited numbers in a small manufacture in Italy so you definitely won’t see them often on other bikes. Choose from narrow Lane Splitter or wide El Jefe handlebars. All versions feature 1” Ø tubular ends to accept common controls and grips and a 2-hole fixture to mount custom headlamp/instrument brackets. Mounting hardware is not included and must be purchased separately. Made in Italy.

Once upon a time when there weren’t any custom parts you could buy from your local shop, the VL fork was a very popular item because it made your Knuckle or Panhead bobber different from the next guy’s scooter. Besides you gained half an inch of length compared to 1936-up Springer forks for improved ground clearance and a more stretched look. Now it’s time to revive those days of the golden 40’s and 50’s with the Cannonball version of H-D’s VL type fork.

• Manufactured just like the original, which means I-beams and connecting braces are drop forged on a huge 10 meter forge hammer. This is the only procedure that guarantees these components stand up to the job.
• The problems with installing the OEM fork were the large fork stem and the handlebar mounting so the Cannonball fork is modified in that it features a 1” fork stem for 1949-up Timken bearings and leg tops to accept the 36-up Springer inline handlebars. This makes installation a snap compared to the original counterpart.

Approved for 4-speed Big Twins thru 1986. Length is measured from axle center line to seat of lower steering head bearing. Made in Europe.

The retro custom bike builder scene sometimes likes to experiment with parts of different brands on the same bike project. For example Indian parts are installed on Harleys and vice versa, with often astonishing results. Among the most positive mergings was the combination of an Indian leaf-spring fork with an H-D Big Twin rigid frame. This type of fork was used by the Wigwam in the 1910 to 1945 period which proves that this was a very successful suspension principle with excellent driving chracteristics.

Of course, the stock item doesn´t fit a Harley frame without major alterations, so W&W decided to produce its own version which allows such an installation without many difficulties. But, of course, not another quick and dirty copy with ugly welding seams and wrong rocker geometry. The Cannonball fork is a professionaly made part with a design as close as possible to its original pattern, manufactured by expert craftsmen in Italy. The first complete prototype was rigorously tested during W&W’s winter tour in Northern Canada and after that sent to the German TUV for a certificate of stability (included). Both tests were passed without any flaws. After that production started.

All test rides were performed with a rigid frame, 30° neck chassis, with which both handling and braking characteristics proved well balanced and stable. The Cannonball leaf spring fork differs from the original in that it features a 1” fork stem for 49-up Timken bearings and leg tops to accept the 36-up Springer handlebars (inline). A horizontal bracket to mount the headlamp is also there. The fork is wide enough to accept disc brake or drum brake systems. Rockers are drilled for 17 mm axles but can be enlarged to 19 mm. Wide Glide axles can be used but must be modified. Neither axle, spacers nor brake are included and must be purchased or fabricated separately. Each fork is shipped preassembled to insure proper function and fitment, however, all components are bare and require painting or plating. Made in Italy.

Absolutely perfect reproductions of the original WR gas tanks as used on the 1946-1952 production race bikes of the same name. The narrow shape and omission of the speedo assembly achieve that much sought after racy look. Made in Europe.

Racing style gas tanks for Big Twins shaped after the legendary WR model tanks of the late forties and early fifties. The beautiful narrow design and excellent European craftsmanship really stand out in the crowd. Each set is completely handmade by experts. Unlike the original WR pattern these tanks are supposed to contain gas in both halves. Made in Europe.

As early as in the 1920’s photographs show bobbed, i.e. shortened fenders when the boys took off their JD’s rear fender’s tail sections or cut chunks off the front fenders at off-road events like the famous Jack Pine rally. This habit soon became popular outside the race tracks and enduros, and so the Bobber style was born. For rebel riders of the fourties and fifties who didn´t want themselves and their bikes to look conservative like the uniform clubs of the era, this modification was a must. And for today’s bikers who own a rigid frame Harley and who want to revive the good old times, our Cal-Bobber fenders are the way to go, too.

As early as in the 1920’s photographs show bobbed, i.e. shortened fenders when the boys took off their JD’s rear fender’s tail sections or cut chunks off the front fenders at off-road events like the famous Jack Pine rally. This habit soon became popular outside the race tracks and enduros, and so the Bobber style was born. For rebel riders of the fourties and fifties who didn´t want themselves and their bikes to look conservative like the uniform clubs of the era, this modification was a must. And for today’s bikers who own a rigid frame Harley and who want to revive the good old times, our Cal-Bobber fenders are the way to go, too.

As early as in the 1920’s photographs show bobbed, i.e. shortened fenders when the boys took off their JD’s rear fender’s tail sections or cut chunks off the front fenders at off-road events like the famous Jack Pine rally. This habit soon became popular outside the race tracks and enduros, and so the Bobber style was born. For rebel riders of the fourties and fifties who didn´t want themselves and their bikes to look conservative like the uniform clubs of the era, this modification was a must. And for today’s bikers who own a rigid frame Harley and who want to revive the good old times, our Cal-Bobber fenders are the way to go, too. Made in Europe.